Wednesday, January 19, 2011
I've just got back in the surf over the last few days after a having a sore back and not being able surf or work for 2 weeks. I even spent the better part of 48 hours flat on my back. It was really nice to get back in the water.
The above shots are by Chris Hewgill. This is my first surf since hurting my back and I'm riding a 5'7" Verve fish with a slightly different rocker and bottom contours than normal, which feels a little more at home in the pocket and on more powerful waves.
I've decided I'm going to start doing a lot more Yoga.
Posted by sage at 7:38 PM