May Daze

The waves have been pretty incredible the last few weeks here and I've been hearing about waves all up and down the coast. It feels like every morning I get up and there's still swell. We usually don't get that many good waves over head high, but lately I've seen some normally very friendly beachbreaks turn into slab-like barrels.

The shot below was taken by my friend Paul Joseph and was right out front of a place I surf every other day... it doesn't normally look like this. There was a lot of water moving and I was struggling to get into position and get down the face on my 5'7" Twin Keel Verve. The first wave I did cartwheels down the face and the next freight-trained off in front of me.

Its a pleasant change to surf some waves over head high and get bullied around again. Hope if you're reading this you're getting some waves too.