Friday, May 20, 2011

May Daze

The waves have been pretty incredible the last few weeks here and I've been hearing about waves all up and down the coast. It feels like every morning I get up and there's still swell. We usually don't get that many good waves over head high, but lately I've seen some normally very friendly beachbreaks turn into slab-like barrels.

The shot below was taken by my friend Paul Joseph and was right out front of a place I surf every other day... it doesn't normally look like this. There was a lot of water moving and I was struggling to get into position and get down the face on my 5'7" Twin Keel Verve. The first wave I did cartwheels down the face and the next freight-trained off in front of me.

Its a pleasant change to surf some waves over head high and get bullied around again. Hope if you're reading this you're getting some waves too.


  1. Yew sick!!

  2. Oh man is that south? Wish I was there, looks pretty hectic though. I'll have to hit Paul up for a squiz at some more photos, he lives next door to mum & dad.